3D Wallpapers – The Best Choice For Your Desktop Background
January 9, 2012 | 
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A recent survey has shown that the first personalization that people tend to do when they buy a new desktop computer, is to set the background to a wallpaper image that is unique to them and a 3D wallpaper is possibly the best way to do it. 3D wallpapers for desktops are now widely available and for a fraction of the price that they used to be. They are something that will be viewed and used every single time that the computer is switched on so having a special 3D background that shows something personal about you or your life is definitely worth a small investment.
With the modern computer monitors and screens being of such high quality and definition, a great 3D desktop wallpaper will jump out of the screen and bring joy into the onlooker. Many of the tasks that require the computer nowadays involve a great deal of stress and very often involve paying bills or departing with cash so a happy and lively 3D desktop background is a great way to relieve some of that inevitable stress.
3D backgrounds are available in all sorts and sizes from the bright, bold and colourful to the subtle and sublime. There are 3D wallpapers for desktop computers around that depict exquisite nature scenery’s of forests or fields where the trees and bushes jump out of the screen and give the viewer a sense of being in the middle of the fantastic out doors. There are also the more simple black and white 3D desktop backgrounds that defy the laws of reason and gravity.
Sports teams now also produce 3D desktop wallpapers of the club badge and the favourite players in the middle of an exciting action. This type of 3D background is hugely popular thanks to the high quality of the wallpaper and the massive popularity in sports teams. It is also possibly the best way to show your affiliation with that certain team. A good 3D desktop wallpaper will invoke conversation about the subject and in the case of sporting teams will spark nostalgia about when the team or players have done something great.
Some of the great 3D wallpapers are the ones that deceive the eye of viewer and make them try to guess what is going on. Spiralling structures and staircases that make absolutely no logic to the human eye are great for setting as a 3D background on the computer. This type of 3D wallpaper will actively engage the brain to try to figure out where the spiral or stairs are leading to and how they can possibly make sense. Some of the most clever and intuitive 3D desktop backgrounds have been designed to incorporate slots and spaces where the computer programmes sit on the screen. These will add the effect that seems like the programmes and documents on the desktop are jumping out of the screen.
Therefore, whatever your taste there will be a 3D wallpaper for desktop background that will be perfect for your home computer.
The Purpose and Place For a Spiral Staircase
I love a spiral staircase, especially the design and installation. Spirals come with some heavy restrictions beyond that of a “normal” staircase. First and foremost is the idea that a spiral stair serves as a secondary staircase in a home or business; or it serves as a loft access that does not exceed 400 to 500 square feet (depending on local codes).
Code compliant spirals are rather vague when you consider it is under or applies to the BOCA, UCB, CABO, IRC 2003, IRC 2006, or IFC 2006 codes. One must check with their local building department to get an update on what codes your spiral with fit.
Here is a short list of the most common code factors:
1. Minimum clear walking path of 26 inches. This means that the spiral will be a minimum 5-foot diameter
2. Each tread will have a minimum of 7-1/2 inch tread depth and 12 inches from the narrow edge.
3. The riser height (from the top one tread to the next) shall not be more than 9-1/2 inches in height.
4. The staircase must maintain a minimum headroom of 6 foot 6 inches.
5. The balusters (spindles) shall be installed so that a 4 inch sphere cannot pass through. A couple code agencies permit up to 4-3/8″.
6. The stairway must have at least one handrail on the wide edge of the tread.
7. Handrail height, measured vertically from the nose of the tread, shall not be less than 34 inches and not more than 38 inches.
Some define a spiral as a stair which winds around a central pole. That doesn’t always hold true. Five years ago a homeowner was given the okay through his building department to install a ladder or spiral accessing his 400 square foot library loft. They did not want the traditional spiral, but rather the look of a free standing staircase with glue-laminated stringers. This would require an inside and outside handrail, the inside being a 6 inch radius. We got the classification of a ladder and built a complete free standing spiral stair with enclosed risers, inside and outside skirts. In essence, a spiral can be creative a creative design only housed by your imagination.
Here’s a fun fact: Spiral stairs in medieval times were made of stone and were installed in a spiral down right. This put attacking swordsmen at a disadvantage who were generally right handed and served as defensive in design and structure
Hardwood Floor Repair: How to Stop Squeaky Stairs and Floors
The beauty of traditional hardwood flooring makes up for the multitude of squeaks and creaks that announces the exact location of household members. Fixing squeaking stairs and floors is a simple procedure. You can either fix them from the basement or crawlspace or you can silence them from the surface of the stairs or floor. All you need are some simple tools and a little time.
Fixing Squeaky Stairs from Below
To fix squeaks on your stairs from beneath the stairs, have a helper walk on the stairs to help you pinpoint to location of each squeak. Depending on the location of the squeak, wedge thin, glue-covered wooden shims into the space between the stair and the stringer (joists), between the stair and the riser above it, or between the stair and the riser below it.
Fixing Squeaky Stairs from Above
If you are working from the surface of the stairs, locate the squeak. If the squeak is toward the front of the stair, drive a wedge into the space between the surface of the stair and the top of the riser below. If the squeak is toward the back of the stair, drive a wedge into the space between the back of the stair and the bottom of the riser above. If the spaces are too tight for wedges, use spiral flooring nails. Drive two nails at an angle toward each other into the joint where tread meets riser, either at the front or the back of the stair. Countersink the nails, and fill the holes with tinted wood putty.
Fixing a Squeaky Floor from Below
Have a helper walk the floor upstairs and stop when they hear a squeak, then knock on the floor at that location so you can pinpoint it from below. Drive a wooden shim coated in wood glue between the joist and subfloor. Screw it into place at an angle through the joist and subfloor with a 1.25-inch drywall screw.
If you have so many squeaks that you would need a dump truck full of shims to quiet them all, consider using a handy “Squeak Ender,” available at home improvement centres. A piece of hardware with a bracket that attaches to the subfloor, the Squeak Ender features a rod that pulls the subfloor tight against the joist to silence squeaks in a larger area. Screw the Squeak Ender into the subfloor, butted against the joist. Tighten the threaded rod. The subfloor will be pulled tight against the joist. Place the Squeak Enders as far apart as necessary to quiet the squeaks along the length of your floor.
Fixing a Squeaky Floor from Above
Purchase a Counter-Snap kit from your local home improvement store. This kit comes with a depth-control gadget, a screwdriver bit and 25 screws whose tops break off once they reach the right depth in the wood. To use the kit, drill a hole 3/32-inch in diameter at the location of the squeak. Place the depth-control gadget over the pilot hole. Screw in one of the screws until the top snaps off. Fill the hole with tinted wood putty, allow it to dry, and sand it.
Fixing a Carpeted Floor from Above
The Squeeeeek-No-More kit works the same way as the Counter-Snap kit and is also available at home improvement stores. It is specially made for stopping squeaks on hardwood floors covered in carpeting.
Simplifying Stair Rise and Run
Simplifying Stair Rise And Run Calculations
When I first started my career in carpentry, building a set of stairs seemed like a complicated and daunting task. We’re not talking finished oak, curved or spiral staircases. I’m talking about your normal carpet covered straight run staircases or porch and deck staircases.
My first stair building experience sort of took the mystery out of it all. I didn’t have to do much figuring because it was a deck replacement job. All I did was save the old stringers from the demo of the old deck. In doing so it all started to make sense to me. How the stairs were attached, the width of the treads, and how high each step was became less of a secret to me.
Anyone with the courage to take on this job needs only patience, basic math, a framing square and the ability to stand back and look at the big picture.
The first thing I look at is how high it is to the top of the landing or deck the stairs will be rising to. A comfortable step is in the 7 to 8 inch range. With this in mind I divide the height to the landing by seven. If the height to the landing is 70″ then it will take 10 rises to get to the top of the landing. I used 70″ to simplify this example. Ninety-nine times out of a hundred it will be 7″ and some odd fraction. For instance if the height was 73 1/2″, the rise would be 7 1/2″.
When building stairs there is always one less tread than there is risers. In this case with 10 risers, that means there are 9 treads. When cutting my stringers, I like to make the cuts for my treads 10″ long. At this dimension I can use a 2×12 for treads without ripping them to a narrower width. This gives me a nosing or overhang of 1 1/4″. It also makes it easier to figure out how much room the stairs will require. In this case 9 treads X 10″ = 90″. The total run of the stairs is 90″.
An example of how easy this works are stairs that go from the 1st floor to the 2nd floor of a house with an eight foot ceiling. This takes 14 risers at 7 and 5/8 inches (I’ve cut so many of these it is forever imbedded in my mind). This means there are 13 treads. Thirteen times ten is 130″. I always made my stairwell opening 120″. This lets 10″ of the stringer (a full tread) sit on the deck or concrete floor. It also leaves plenty of headroom for the stairs below if there is a basement. The same well opening above (120″) also gives you enough headroom.
This can seem like an overwhelming project. Like any other project, if you take the time and patience and a little thought you can acquire the ability.
(c) 2005 Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com
How To Install Carpet On Stairs
There are basically two methods of installing carpet on stairs. One is the waterfall method where one piece of carpet covers each riser and tread. The other is the cap and band installation. In this case the cap is a piece of carpet installed over the treads and the band is the piece that will cover the risers. In this article I will show you how to install carpet using the waterfall method. These instructions are for basic stairs and not for spiral stairs which would require additional procedures.
Tools Needed:
Tack strips
Staples or upholstery nails
Measuring Tape
Knee Pads
Knee kicker (check your rental store)
Stair Tool (check your rental store)
Utility knife
Hammer
Safety glasses
Obviously you’ll need to remove all the old carpet. Get rid of the tack strips and don’t try to use the old padding. Make sure any nails and staples are removed and sweep down the area to be carpeted.
Before you get started you’re going to have to figure out how much carpet you’ll need. To calculate the width simply measure across the tread. If your stairs are open on one or both ends make sure to measure under the nosing to where it meets the riser and add it to the total width. Figure the total length of your flight of stairs by measuring the tread and riser. Assuming your going to use carpet pad make sure to add at least 3 inches per stair. If your steps have nosing add one foot to the total flight measurement.
Okay, let’s get started. Apply the tack strip to the stair crotch location. Next you’ll need to tighten the carpet by tucking in the crotch. You can do this by using a knee kicker. It is a tool used to install carpet in small areas and stairs. It consists of a piece of metal tubing with a pin plate attached to it. On the other end it has a padded cushion where you can position your knee to apply pressure to the carpet. You should be able to find one at your local rental store. Simply place the padded end several inches above your knee and add pressure.
This is where you will use the knee kicker:
To attach to the tack strip you need to use the knee kicker to stretch the carpet straight from the center of the tread and hook it to the tack strip located at the crotch. Once the carpet has been hooked to the tack strip you need to firmly attach it by sliding your carpet tool back and forth to compress the pins. Using your utility knife or carpet knife trim as needed. A carpet knife is better as it has two sides and is sharper than a utility knife. Repeat this process on each side of the tread. Before going to the next tread make sure the carpet is smoothed out on the riser and then staple to the stair lip. I would recommend you staple about every 2 inches. Don’t forget to also staple along the edge of the riser.
Make sure to step back and take a look at your work before going on to the next tread. Is the carpet smooth? Did you kick it in evenly? It is also a good time to give your knees and back a rest. If everything looks good the continue onto the next tread. If not you’ll have to pull the carpet off and install it again. Repeat this process until you are finished.
Once finished stand back and admire your work and give yourself a pat on the back. You now have a beautiful looking staircase.
A Variety of Indoor Staircases
An old house can be given a new look by just replacing indoor stair railings. According to the space available you can design your indoor stairs. When remodeling your old house, just consider redoing the indoor stairs according to the home new decor. Large indoor staircases can be replaced with spiral staircases, giving more space. Even you can have a new indoor staircase where there was none previously, for example a new attic staircase.
The house can get a different look by just replacing angular staircase with a circular one. To give natural look to your house, the railings can be made curve shaped. There are Home improvement stores that provide different railings with various styles. There are online sites that help you to find out places to get different interesting railings. If you are not satisfied with the available railings then you can always go ahead to get it done according to your taste.
Safety is one important aspect to be considered when choosing railings for your house. Make sure that it will not collapse under pressure. The city codes have some norms regarding the width between railings. So ensure that the railings you have opted for is within the city code norms. If the width between the railings is more, there are chances of small children getting their head stuck in between the railings.
If you are planning to remodel the indoor stair to get more space, then first step is to replace the conventional one into a spiral staircase. Generally large indoor stairs occupy more space so it can be made into spiral. There are many ways to make these spiral stairs look elegant and synch with your home decor. Spiral stairs can be made differently using various styles and materials available. Spiral stairs are also called circular stairs. It can be made either in wood or in metal. These stairs are sure to compliment your traditional or contemporary decor. When choosing circular stairs go for a sturdy and safe one. People are advised to hold the handrails of the circular stairs, as it is difficult to climb when compare to straight steps. There are kits available in the market to build your own spiral stairs.
Spiral staircase can be used to reach attics. But there are pull down stairs for attics, which will unfold like a retractable ladder. Make sure it has sufficient head space while climbing and withstand the weight of a fully-grown up adult. You can get stairs built for your attic or can assemble a compact modular stairs.
Ensure that whatever stairs design you choose it abides with all safety rules and building regulations.
Grand Canyon: Bright Angel Trail Versus South Kaibab Trail
Wy wife Wendy and I have been hiking in the Grand Canyon for close to 25 years. We have hiked both the Bright Angel and the South Kaibab Trails hundreds of times each. At the writing of this article we have completed just under (40) Rim 2 Rim 2 Rim’s. We presently reside in the Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim and hike below the Rim 3-4 times a week. Quite often, we are asked “Which is the better trail to hike?” This is a difficult question to answer without personal knowledge of the hiker. Therefore, here is an outline of the trail characteristics so that you may choose for yourself.
PERMITS
You do not need a permit to “day hike” on any trail in the Grand Canyon. You also do not need a permit if you have a reservation and are a guest at Phantom Ranch. However, you will need a backcountry permit if you plan on camping below the rim. The Backcountry Information Center’s phone number is: 928-638-7875.
TRAIL ACCESS
The Bright Angel Trail has the better access as it is located in the Grand Canyon Village. You may walk west along the mezzanine from Bright Angel Lodge past Kolb Studio, veer towards the Rim and you’re on the BA Trail. You may also access the trail from behind the mule corral above the Hermit’s Rest shuttle station.
You cannot park at the South Kaibab Trail, it is accessed by the shuttle bus system or by parking at one of the view parking areas on Highway 64 or by a small parking lot just east of the turnoff to Yaki Point, (approx 1/2 mile walk). Parking at the South Kaibab Trail parking area will result in a fine as the Park Rangers patrol the parking lot daily. However, the shuttle bus does arrive every fifteen minutes and is a pleasant stress free method of commuting out to the South Kaibab Trail. Shuttle bus’s depart early morning and into the evening hours, there is even a Kaibab Express shuttle that departs from several lodges. Check The Guide (GCNP newspaper) for seasonal departure times.
Many day hikers, backpackers and Rim 2 Rimmers choose to start their hike on the South Kaibab and finish on the Bright Angel. In that manner they do not have to wait for a shuttle bus after they’re finished hiking on the South Kaibab. As the Bright Angel Trail has the easiest access, it is naturally more crowded. However, the BA Trail does offer convenience for a hiker that simply wants to walk a few hundred yards below the Rim.
TRAIL AMENITIES
The Bright Angel Trail has numerous shelters, water stations and rest rooms along it’s corridor. This is due to the fact the that Grand Canyon Water Pipeline meanders back and forth along the trail. (The water for the South Rim is actually piped from Roaring Springs near the North Rim). There is shelter, water and restrooms (no flush) at the 1.5 mile, 3 mile and Indian Gardens along with restroom only (no flush) at Pipe Creek Beach, with a shelter a couple hundred yards up the trail. In addition, Pipe Creek itself offers opportunities for water, but it is NOT recommended and it must be filtered as mules pass through the creek daily. The BA Trail also offers more opportunities for shade from the searing Arizona sun. The trail itself follows the lower portion of Pipe Creek into Indian Gardens with shade coming naturally from the steep canyon walls and Cottonwood trees.
The South Kaibab Trail does not have any water stations or shelters on the trail. There is a water station located at the trail head on the South Rim, so make sure you carry a full ration of water with you on departure. There are restrooms (no flush) located at Cedar Ridge and near the junction of the Tonto Trail at “The Tipoff”. Shade on the South Kaibab Trail is a commodity – there are no shade trees along the trail. Occasionally you will find shade along the numerous switchbacks, but be prepared for full sun any time of year.
TRAIL CONDITIONS
By far the South Kaibab is in much better shape than Bright Angel. As of the writing of this article (Fall 2011), the GCNP and several volunteer groups have spent countless hours grooming the trail. The main two causes of trail degradation is weather, (from monsoon washouts and snow) and mule traffic. Mules carrying guests and supplies back and forth to Phantom Ranch cause extensive damage to the trail. Generally, the result is large scooped “buckets” where the mules step over “water bars” (diversions running perpendicular to the trail). The result for the hiker is stepping to the side or over these “buckets”, which are frequently filled with mule urine. It is in a word – disgusting. The Bright Angel Trail has hundreds of these “buckets” which make negotiating the trail awkward. The fact that a few hundred mule riders each month cause most of the damage to the trail system is a subject of debate for folks that frequently hike the Bright Angel or South Kaibab corridor trails. Recently, the GCNP has cancelled mule day rides to Plateau Point on BA trail to reduce the degradation.
STEEPNESS
Either trail requires a hiker to be in good physical condition in order to hike these trails. Too often hikers are lulled into a sense of security while descending and then discovering their limitations while ascending. Rescue calls during the late spring, summer and early fall months on either trail is common. This is a high altitude desert environment with steep trails. The combination can be fatal, usually resulting in heat stroke or a cardiac event for those that overestimate their abilities, are improperly clothed or have not carried enough water. The common phrase is “Hydrate or Die”.
The Bright Angel Trail is 7.6 miles to the Colorado River. This trail is less steep at the bottom and gets steeper near the Rim. From the river, one meanders along Pipe Creek, negotiates a handful of switchbacks and enters the Devil’s Corkscrew, a beautiful moderately steep section of the trail which resembles a huge 3/4 mile spiral staircase. Once clear of the Devil’s Corkscrew it is a light uphill riparian hike with several creek crossings to Indian Gardens. Most hikers take a break at Indian Gardens before the one mile slightly uphill hike to Jacob’s Ladder. This is where the strenuous hiking begins. It is approximately 3.5 miles from the start of Jacob’s Ladder to the South Rim. There are very few flat sections on the trail, it is relentless. Many hikers breeze from the Colorado River to Indian Gardens in a couple of hours, only to find their pace slowed to less than 1 mile an hour from Jacob’s Ladder to the Rim. When hiking the BA trail from the River up, remember to conserve your energy for the final 3.5 miles!!
The South Kaibab Trail is approximately 6 miles to the Colorado River. This trail is much steeper at the bottom than at the top. Given the fact that the South Kaibab Trail is shorter, means that the trail is steeper overall. It is also approximately 200′ higher at the Rim than the BA Trail. Remember – there is no water stations or running water along the South Kaibab Trail, you must carry ample water. After emerging from the Black Bridge Tunnel at the Colorado River the hiker immediately engages a series of steep switchbacks which during the summer months can be devastating. There is a nice break with a fairly uphill hike after The Tipoff and then once again there is another set of extremely steep switchbacks that are usually in full sun to Skeleton Point. Skeleton Point is approximately halfway to the South Rim. The trail is moderately uphill, but still full sun to Cedar Ridge. The trail becomes steep again to Ooo-Aaah Point, levels off and the final climb out through the Chimney is short, but steep. Basically the South Kaibab Trail has three steep sections with moderate to easy breaks in between. Given that it is shorter than the BA Trail, it is a common choice for Park Rangers, Phantom Ranch employees and locals when the temperatures are moderate.
SEASONS
The Grand Canyon has four seasons and they frequently happen all in one day!! Advanced knowledge of the temperature, amount of snow and position of the sun will aid the hiker greatly in trail choices and outerwear. As a general rule of thumb, whatever the high temperature in Phoenix for the day will likely, within a few degrees, be the high temperature at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Sometimes during winter storms, this is not the case, but generally this guideline is pretty accurate. During the summer one can expect temperatures in excess of 130 degrees in full sun at the Colorado River/Phantom Ranch. The temperatures may only be in the 80′s on the South Rim. (A dry and quite comfortable environment.) Conversely, during the winter months you may leave the South Rim at 10 degrees, only to find yourself in shorts and a short sleeve shirt just a few hours later basking in 60/70 degree temps. At any time of the year, on either the Bright Angel or South Kaibab Trails the hiker must be cognizant of the extreme change in temperatures, carry the appropriate amount of water and during the winter be ready to “layer” up or down with outerwear.
Even though the South Rim of the Grand Canyon appears to be a high desert, we still get snow. A snow covered Rim is an exceptional sight and the hiker should not be discouraged by reports of 8-18″ of snow along the South Rim. During snowy conditions it is best to descend on the Bright Angel Trail after 8AM in the morning. The reasoning is simple, the mule riders leave the South Rim on the BA Trail usually around 8AM…allow them to break the trail for you. The hiker must be extremely cautious on the descent, the snow usually covers 2-3″ of solid ice on the trail. It is a NECESSITY to have Yak-Traks and a pair of hiking poles with snow baskets. Once the day moves forward, the mule riders will ascend the South Kaibab Trail from Phantom Ranch usually after 12 noon. A reasonable decent of the South Kaibab will now be considerably easier along with Yak-Tracks and poles. Typically, if there is little or no snow on the trail, (ice is almost always present during winter months), the South Kaibab is the best choice since it receives more direct sun higher toward the South Rim during the winter.
One of the most important considerations when hiking in the Grand Canyon on either the Bright Angel or South Kaibab is the time of year and how it relates to the angle of the sun in the sky. Keep in mind the 22nd or 23rd of June is the summer solstice when the sun is at it’s highest point. Obviously the sun and it’s reflective capabilities against the rock walls of the Canyon is at it’s strongest during this time. For example, hiking in mid-May is considerably hotter than hiking in mid-October. The further in the year beyond the summer solstice, the lower the sun is in the sky from the South. This will cast deep shadows into the Canyon from the South Rim itself. Both trails are effected by this phenomenon, however the Bright Angel Trail is effected more so since it runs it’s course up the very southern edge of the BA Canyon. You can expect most of the steep part of Bright Angel Trail to be in the shadows and covered with ice during the winter. During the summer, Bright Angel also offers more shade, especially after 3pm in the afternoon. Therefore, the best choice for winter hiking is the South Kaibab Trail, you will likely have warm sun throughout the day. During the summer, the South Kaibab Trail is akin to an oven. We generally rarely hike the South Kaibab Trail beyond Cedar Ridge during June, July and August.
This article is meant to provide the South Rim hiker with a general idea of the characteristics between the Bright Angel and South Kaibab Trails. Anytime a hiker enters the Canyon for more than a 1.5 miles, (1.5 mile Resthouse on BA or Cedar Ridge on SK), they should check with Grand Canyon National Park personnel for daily trail conditions.
How to Make Staircases Safer For the Elder and For Kids
Having kids and elders in the house can give you some worrying reasons. Older people have little stability while small children don’t understand risks. Making things safe around the house will bring you comfort.
First of all you should have night-lights in your stair halls. They use little energy and make walking safe when the house is dark. Keep a supply of the appropriate light bulbs in the house so that you can always replace a burnout promptly.
Falls are great risks for older people. So that they don’t fall on the stairs, it is first important that they actually see them. Take some reflective tape and a pair of scissors and mark the treads with the tape. It glows in the dark so it is useful at night or when there are power outages. You will place the strip of tape on the top, front edge of the tread on its entire length and flatten it well. Clean the stairs before trying to tape the treads so that there is maximum adherence power. Also mark any uneven surface that may cause a person with poor mobility and eyesight to trip with reflective tape.
Small children moving around in walkers most definitely cannot go down the stairs on their own. Until the child understands that he or she should stay away from the stairs, it is a good idea to install child safety gates. Make sure that the gate is well secured to the walls. Pressure mounted gates will clamp to the sides of the staircase by means of pressure. You can use straps and screws for securing such a system gate to the walls. What is even better is that you select gates with hardware mounts. Be careful to securely screw them into the wall and check them regularly to see that they are still fastened tightly.
Stairs for Petite Spaces
One of the main concerns, especially in homes with limited space, is the amount of room it will take to have stairs installed into your home’s lay-out. This is a huge dilemma for most homeowners since they are faced with the problem of putting stairs into the home while saving space in the process. Some would opt to forego the idea of putting stairs altogether. Others will opt to try the alternatives to using the conventional staircase, such as ladders, hidden stairs, or pull-down stairs. But what many do not realize is that there are ways to put stairs into your small space without sacrificing comfort and space.
Before doing anything else, you should first take measurements of the space where you want your stairs to be placed. All the measurements should be accurate up to the last digit, avoid rounding off numbers, everything should be precise to avoid miscalculations which could lead delay later on.
Next would be to have a rough draft of how you want your stairs to look like. The stair design should be carefully planned and discerned. It should be able to blend beautifully with the space’s existing furnishings, and complement the homes over-all design. A good tip is to have your stairs be made out of the same material that is dominant in the space. If wood is dominant or the home is abundant with earth tones such as taupe or brown, a good choice would to choose to put wood stairs. These will exactly blend with your interiors while giving out a very natural and earthy feel.
Another way is to scale your stairs according to the space. It would be unwise to put large stair treads in a very compact space. Scale everything to the space, proportions should be noted. There should be enough space for headroom, so that you can comfortably climb up and down the stairs without fear of bumping your head against the ceiling. The space should also be enough for you to scale the stairs quickly in case of emergency. The height of the step should be enough to give you a comfortable step when using the stairs. It should also be safe for small children and the elderly to use.
A good option would be to use a spiral staircase in your home. This is now the rising fad in most compact homes. Aside form the modern vibe it radiates into a space, it also is relatively simple to install and easy to maintain. It also comes in a variety of designs and materials. Aside from the spiral staircase‘s visual appeal, it also saves a lot of space. This is because it is positioned in a vertical manner, as opposed to the conventional type of stairs, which takes up more space because of its diagonal orientation.
Lastly, an ingenious way to be able to put stairs into a seemingly small space is to forego putting in storage space and instead use the space under stairs as an added storage. Minimizing on storage space will give you more room for you to put your stairs. These are just some of the ways on how to put stairs in a small space. Planning everything carefully and considering the space available will help you put stairs that is just right for a home where space is tight.
Some Information on the Installation of Handrails
The whole purpose of handrails is to prevent untoward accidents when people use the ramps, decks, stairs etc. To add to this, they also contribute significantly in enhancing the aesthetic look of the surroundings.
Because of this, handrails are made in a variety of beautiful designs that appeal to nearly every type of house owner. Thus, whether you have a modern and contemporary ambience in your home or the traditional and gracious look, you will find handrails that suit any setting. If you opt for wooden railings, they impart a solid and dignified look to the stairs and another advantage of wood is that it suits practically every kind of furniture and setting. Another benefit of wood is that it can be used in combination with other materials in your railings.
Materials used for handrails are diverse. The basic aim behind the manufacturing of handrails is that it should complement the material of the railing. So, wood, aluminum and steel are some of the popular materials for handrails and they come in rectangular, square and round shapes. Most of the metallic materials either have a silk luster finish, an electrostatic powder coated finish, an acrylic urethane finish or simply a brightly polished finish.
The basic fact is that handrails come in various styles but their installation depends on the kind of staircase and the style of railing you have. If the railing is simple without any elaborate curves and turns, then the installation of the handrails presents no problems whatsoever. However, if the stairway is spiral or circular or if the railings have an intricately curved design, then installing handrails might involve a high degree of skill and knowledge. This also holds true for railings which have many right angle turns. If the handrails have to be fixed on to the wall, they have to be fixed onto brackets which are then attached to the walls.
Before you fix the handrails, though, you have to take into account building codes that have certain specifications as far as handrails are concerned. Generally, during installation care has to be taken so that a child’s head cannot pass through once the newel posts and balusters have been fixed. The height of the handrail should not be less than 34 inches and more than 38 inches. If you are unsure about the building code requirements, a good idea would be to verify with the building code of your locality whereby you can obtain the specifications that are particularly relevant to your area.
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